No that’s not just a Bollywood
song, it is the colloquial way of how the locals of Amritsar are called. A Punjabi jooti(footwear), Kulcha(bread), Fish,
fulkaari(fabric), the khaana-peena, from Amritsar is all Ambarsari. And
all the praajis, veerjis and parjaaijis, basically the people are Ambarsariya.
And when we reached
Amritsar, at 6 in the morning, taxi, auto, tempo, hotel, motel, tour guide, bus
guy, chai pani guy flocked us with such Ambarsari offers that were outrageous
and so unwanted by the sleep deprived us. No! Please vanish!
It was on the auspicious
day of Guru Nanak Jayanti that we had dared to be here. Those who do not know,
for us Sikhs, it is our biggest festival. It is the birthday of our holy saint Guru
Nanak Devji. And the Golden Temple in Amritsar is our holiest shrine. It’s like
being in Bethlehem on Christmas eve. Our parents had warned
us, “You're going from so far, don't return without darshan!" Actually, it isn’t their
fault, the kind of hopeless fun loving friends we were, expecting divinity from
us was a far sight.
One of my friends on this trip, is also a Sardar and
her Aunt knew the authorities of the main Darbar Saheb very well. So the head
of the shrine had assured her, 2 rooms and VIP Darshan for all of us. While I write this,
you might think how mean, it’s a place of worship, why couldn’t you be in the
line like other pilgrims and wait for your chance, I would only ask in my
defense… if you are a bunch of 25year olds traveling from Bombay
& Delhi and have the luxury of sailing past the 4 hour line,
without bribing anyone, without troubling anyone, will you still not do it? We
did. And especially if we know we are God’s favorite children, we would
accept it with open arms!
So back to the arrival,
the ordeal was to call the Paaiji (pandit) who had booked our rooms and made the
arrangements. As soon as he answered his phone, we rushed to our rooms to empty
our bladders and stomachs, which is after 3 hours of our arrival.
“Eva, I don’t think your
Bua knows anyone, she must have bluffed. No one will answer, lets go to
Gurudwara toilets and get fresh atleast.”
“What ya Eva, what is
this, you can’t even imagine under how much pressure I am in.”
“Eva, Paaiji made you
Pagal, lets get a hotel and go stand in the darshan line.”
“Eva how could your Bua
dupe us like this yaa, we are such innocent kids.”
“Guys can you please shut
up, he’s a Paaiji he must be in gurudwara, he will call back when he sees our
calls. Relax!" Eva busy making him calls, bursted at all of us.
And just then the ever
hungry me added, “Fine lets just go have some breakfast. Sumit you remember
that kulcha place outside Gurudwara in that small lane! Let's just go there.” “Awesome!” everyone
unanimously yelled and we dragged our luggage and ourselves. The tiny lanes of Amritsar are flocking with poor kids. They are left on the road to
beg from the tourists and earn their bread. While we crossed them and tried to shoo them, we ended up making friends with them and exchanged fowl smells and basically looked alike in dirty clothes.
We bought them food and clicked pictures. They thought we were like them only,
from a different village may be. We let them believe so. Here’s a peek, make a
guess of the who’s who of the beggar lane of Amritsar.
After we passed through and reached
to this double storied dhaba we ordered 2-3 Kulchas. “No god, I cant eat such
early in the morning.” “Yaar, how can you eat without getting fresh, you guys
eat, I won't.” Three of us who had been to Amritsar before and knew how delicious these Kulchas are, went ahead and ordered, and the
other 4 who don’t know what they are missing threw their weight around and just
waited in boredom for paaiji to call back. And the moment our Kulchas also
known as the Chur Chur naan arrived, the delectable smell of these divine
smelling breads with aloo or paneer fillings inside left them baffled. “Can I take one
bite?" "Yaar smell is damn nice!" "It looks
sooo yummy.” And with that, within 1 minute the plates were cleaned,
swipped, licked and cleared. And then began the round of Kulchas. We ate 17
kulchas amongst the 7 of us. So much so for the king size morning
breakfast!
After paying the bill we decided now
is the time to start checking out hotels because we were determined that we are
fooled and before it got too late, let’s make up for the lost time. We divided
our selves amongst three groups. Two went to one hotel, two to the other, and
three of us stayed put with the luggage near the shoe stall of the Gurudwara.
People came, staired, gossiped, went, and we stood right their praying for the God’s
servant, our beloved paaiji to call back. He didn’t. After a while, one group
came back with rates. And a few minutes later, the other two came walking with
few papers in their hand.
“Chalo let’s go, we have
finalized the rooms, bathrooms are nice and clean, it’s not noisy also, let’s
go.” The disheartened 'us' started picking up our bags and suitcases and just then, the
phone rang! “Paaiji Calling” And we all jumped in joy and celebrated. Nirvana. Waheguruji tussi great ho! We got fresh, relaxed for a bit in our rooms and
without wasting more time rushed to the Gurudwara.
Harmandir Saahbji
It was November end, the
cold had started dawning in Amritsar and the marble floor of the Gurudwara gave
shivers to the bare foot us as we walked inside the gates. And just then,
when through the huge gate, the Amrit sarovar (Nectar
pool) comes in your site all the years of misery, months of plight and days of longingness
vanish. It is unbelievable how certain places of worship have this aura of
awesomeness. The moment you step inside, you feel the divinity flowing through
the place. You feel at home. You pray in gratitude even if you don’t want to. One side of us, wanted to capture everything in pictures and pose like maniacs, the other side just
wanted to stay calm, close our eyes and just be ourselves.
For those of you who
haven’t been to the Golden Temple, do it very soon. Its’ golden top will make
your eyes water with sun reflecting on it while the calming blue water of the
sarovar will soothe them and your soul as well. And as you start with your parikrama (round) of the sarovar, you
will see a lot of kids and men taking bath in their under-wears in the ice-cold water and almost in
a state of bliss. While you can't stop hopping from one carpet to the other to
save your feet from the cold floor you will wonder how brave those people are. I can
vouch for this, because that’s what I did. Observed and soaked in people praying,
worshipping and connecting with the divine in ways, personal to each one of
them.
And when it was the time
for us to take a dip in the holy pool, we were scared of the chilly water. The guys out rightly
refused. My friend Eva and I were determined to do it, so we made sure all of
us girls do it. We did it. In a small room on the sides of the pool is the women’s
holy dip area. The belief is, apart from kachha (underwear)
one has to take off everything worldly from their body and then take the holy
dip. It not just takes you nearer to god, but it also makes everyone equal
before god. And while our minds questioned and cursed this rule, when we
reluctantly, shiveringly took the first dip, we realized what it meant.
Divinity. Purity. At it's best. I have nothing that’s mine, you have given
everything, you will give everything, I have no prayers, only gratitude for
everything you have given me. I dip again, and bow in your holy feet. Thank you
Waheguru, thank you God.
And after finishing that we
continued to move towards the main mandir - the Darbar Sahib's darshan and aarti. Will write in more, with more divineness and
lot more fun at the Wagah border, until then, remember to say your prayers, and
bow your head before God, for it could have always been worse! What he has given you,
is what you should be thankful of, only then, he will give you, grant you more.
With this attitude of gratitude, smile – you the reader of Ambarsariya! J